5 Amazing Halloween Crochet Pattern- FREE !!!

Halloween is knocking at the door. It's time to made something with crochet ladies.
Today we came up with step by step tutorial of  5 amazing things which you can make with Crochet absolutely free.

Ready, Set, Go-

Filet Crochet Halloween

  

Chain 193. Chain 3 to turn which will count as the first double crochet.

Below is an estimate for the various size thread.

Size Estimate:

Crochet Cotton Size 10- width= 14.7", height= 15.8", Steel Hook 7, 460 yds

Crochet Cotton Size 20- width= 14.1", height= 15.1", Steel Hook 9, 431 yds

Crochet Cotton Size 30- width= 13.4", height= 14.5", Steel Hook 11, 403 yds

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Boo Ghosts

This trio will surely scare up a giggle from all trick or treaters!

Finished Size

Each Ghost is approximately 5" tall.

Materials

Red Heart® Super Saver® Art.

E300 by Coats & Clark or worsted yarn -- 3 oz.

White #311, 1 oz.

Vibrant Orange #354 and small amount Black #312

6 black 8-mm half-round beads

Polyester fiberfill

Craft glue or hot glue gun

Tapestry needle

G hook or hook size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge

We are not responsible for lack of materials due to project not being worked to gauge.

Gauge for this pattern: 4 sc = 1"; 4 sc rnds = 1".

Basic Stitches

Ch, sl st, sc.

Ghost (make 3)

Head & Body

Rnd 1: With white, ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, join with sl st in first sc. (6 sc made) 

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join. (12)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around, join. (18)

Rnds 5-6: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join.

Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc next 2 sts tog, (sc in next st, sc next 2 sts tog) around, join. (12) 

Rnd 8: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join. (24)

Rnds 9-17: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. At end of last rnd, fasten off.

Base

Rnd 1: With white, ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, join with sl st in first sc. (6 sc made) 

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join. (12)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around, join. (18)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around, join. (24)

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in first 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around, join. Fasten off. (30)

Easing to fit, sew Head & Body to Base, stuffing before closing.

For mouth (each is different), with black, using straight stitch, embroider mouth over rnd 6 as shown in photo.

For eyes, glue 2 beads over rnds 3 and 4 centered above mouth spaced 1/8" apart.

Arms (make 2)

Rnd 1: With white, ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, join with sl st in first sc. (6 sc made) 

Rnds 2-10: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. At end of last rnd, fasten off. Stuff.

For Ghost No. 1, sew both Arms pointing up on each side of Body. Tack top of left Arm to rnd 4 of Head.

For Ghost No. 2, sew both Arms pointing up on each side of Body.

For Ghost No. 3, sew both Arms pointing forward on each side of Body.

Letter "B"

Bar

Rnd 1: With orange, ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, join with sl st in first sc. (6 sc made)

Rnds 2-12: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. Stuff.

Rnd 13: Ch 1, (sc next 2 sts tog) around, join. Fasten off.

Hump (make 2)

Rnd 1: With orange, ch 2, 5 sc in second ch from hook, join with sl st in first sc. (5 sc made)

Rnds 2-20: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. At end of last rnd, fasten off.

Sew Humps to Bar (see photo). 

Sew to Ghost No. 1 as shown in photo.

Letter "O" (make 2)

Rnd 1: With orange, ch 2, 5 sc in second ch from hook, join with sl st in first sc. (5 sc made)

Rnds 2-28: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. At end of last rnd, fasten off.

Sew ends together.

Sew one to Ghost No. 2 and Ghost No. 3 (see photo)

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Newborn Witches Hat

How adorable would this newborn witch hat be as a photo prop or even as part of a little costume?? You could easily modify this for a baby boy by adding stars and making this a wizard hat. I designed this very hat for me to sell. I do not sell my items very often but who in their right minds could pass this up for their new baby girl? <3 Enjoy this YARNTASTIC free pattern!

Supplies

Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Redheart)

5 mm and 3.75 mm Crochet Hooks

Crochet needle (just for weaving in ends)

Stitches

CH- Chain

SC – Single Crochet

HDC – Half Double Crochet

Get Started! Using 5 mm hook..

Round 1: Magic Circle, CH 2, 3 HDC, Join to top CH of CH 2.

Working in a continuous rounds-

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Round 2: HDC in next 4 stitches

Round 3: 2 HDC , HDC , 2 HDC , HDC

Round 4: HDC in next 6 stitches

Round 5: **2 HDC, HDC in next 2 stitches,  repeat  from **one more time

Round 6: HDC in next 8 stitches

Round 7: **2 HDC, HDC in next 3 stitches repeat  from **one more time

Round 8: HDC in next 10 stitches

Round 9: **2 HDC, HDC in next 4 stitches repeat  from **one more time

Round 10: **2 HDC, HDC in next 5 stitches repeat  from **one more time

Round 11: HDC in next 14 stitches

Round 12: **2 HDC, HDC in next 6 stitches repeat  from **one more time

Round 13: **2 HDC, HDC in next 7 stitches repeat  from **one more time

Round 14: HDC in next 18 stitches

Round 15: **2 HDC, HDC in next 5 stitches repeat  from **TWO more times

Round 16: HDC in next 21 stitches

Round 17: **2 HDC, HDC in next 6 stitches repeat  from **two more times

Round 18: **2 HDC, HDC in next 7 stitches repeat  from **two more times

Round 19: HDC in next 27 stitches

Round 20: **2 HDC, HDC in next 8 stitches repeat  from **two more times

Round 21: **2 HDC, HDC in next 9 stitches repeat  from **two more times

Round 22: **2 HDC, HDC in next 10 stitches repeat  from **two more time.

Round 23: 34 HDC, SC in next stitch, Slip stitch into next stitch

Change Colors

 Round 24: CH 2, HDC in same stitch,  HDC in next 17 stitches. 2 HDC in next stitch, HDC in next 17 stitches. Join to top of CH 2.

Round 25: CH 2, HDC in next 37 stitches. Join to top of CH 2.

Round 26: CH 2, HDC in same space, HDC in next 18 stitches. 2 HDC, HDC in next 18 stitches. Join to top of CH 2

Round 27: CH 2, HDC in same space, HDC in next 19 stitches. 2 HDC, HDC in next 19 stitches. Join to top of CH 2

Change Colors and switch to f/5 – 3.75 mm hook

IN FRONT LOOPS ONLY

Round 28: CH 2, HDC in same stitch, HDC in next 2 stitches. **2 HDC, HDC in next 2 stitches. Repeat around, join to top of CH 2.

WORK IN BOTH LOOPS AGAIN

Round 29: CH 2, HDC in same stitch, HDC in next 3 stitches. **2 HDC, HDC in next 3 stitches. Repeat around, join to top of CH 2.

Round 30: CH 2, HDC in same stitch, HDC in next 4 stitches. **2 HDC, HDC in next 4 stitches. Repeat around, join to top of CH 2.

Round 31:   CH 2, HDC in same stitch, HDC in next 5 stitches. **2 HDC, HDC in next 5 stitches. Repeat around, join to top of CH 2.

Finish off.

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Batman Inspired Costume

Totally fun Batman costume!  This project takes a bit of time, but isn't very complicated.  You could easily get it done over a weekend.  The stitches are simple, but the cape can get time consuming.  I am actually planning to add more length to my sons cape.  Right now it covers his entire back, but I am going for the full Batman effect, so I must make it longer!  Pattern instructions will include the full length of the cape and fit a toddler size 5/6.

Crochet Batman Inspired Costume

Materials:

* H hook

*Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in black (Get the BIG roll!)

*Yarn needle

Stitches Used:

Ch = Chain

DC = Double Crochet

SC = Single Crochet

TC = Treble Crochet

DC dec = Double Crochet Decrease

Sl st = Slip Stitch

MC = Magic Circle *Note: If you are not familiar with this technique, I highly recommend learning it for this project.  The ears will especially benefit from the Magic Circle technique.  If you do not use the Magic Circle technique, you can use the same technique you would normally use to begin a circular beanie round, such as ch 4 and join with sl st.  A video tutorial for the Magic Circle technique will be available on the blog soon.

Begin with a Magic Circle.

R1: 8 DC in center

R2: 2 DC in each stitch around.  Join with sl st in top of first DC.  Ch 2.

R3: *2DC in same stitch, 1 DC in next stitch* Repeat around. Join with sl st in top of first DC.  Ch 2.

R4:  *2DC in same stitch, 1 DC in next 2 stitches* Repeat around. Join with sl st in top of first DC.  Ch 2.

R5:  *2DC in same stitch, 1 DC in next 3 stitches* Repeat around. Join with sl st in top of first DC.  Ch 2.

R6: *2DC in same stitch, 1 DC in next 4 stitches* Repeat around. Join with sl st in top of first DC.  Ch 2.

R7: *2DC in same stitch, 1 DC in next 5 stitches* Repeat around. Join with sl st in top of first DC.  Ch 2.

R8-R10: DC around.  Join with sl st in top of first DC.  Ch 2.

R11: 28 DC, 5 SC, 4 DC, 5 SC, DC to end of row.  Join with sl st in top of first DC.  Ch 2.

R12: 27 DC, 7 sl st, ch 2, 3 DC, 7 sl st, DC to end of round.  Join with sl st in top of first DC.  Ch 2.

R13: 26 DC, 8 sl st, ch 2, 4 DC, 8 sl st, DC to end of round.  Join with sl st in top of first DC.  Ch 2.

R14: 25 DC, 1 sl st, ch 6. Attach with sl st to top of ch 2 from previous round (creates eyehole).  3 sl st, ch 6, join with sl st to top of first DC after 2nd eyehole.  DC to end of row.  Join with sl st in top of first DC.  Ch 2.

R15: 24 DC, 9 TC, ch 3. Sl st in first ch (creating picot).  9 TC, DC to end of round. Join with sl st in top of first DC.  Tie off end and weave in.

Top of mask is created.  Now we begin work in rows for the bottom of the mask.

R1: Attach yarn in first DC after right eyehole.  Ch 2.  DC around to last DC before left eyehole.  Ch 2, turn. 

R2: 10 DC, *DC dec, 10 DC* Repeat to end.  Ch 2, turn.

R3: *6 DC, DC dec* Repeat to last 3 stitches.  3 DC, ch 2, turn.

R4: 3 DC, *DC dec, 3 DC* Repeat to end.  Ch 4.  Join with sl st in top of first DC, creating a round.

Now, we begin working in rounds again.

R1 & R2: Ch 2.  DC around, join.

Now, we finish in rows.

R1: Ch 2.  2 DC in each of the next 31 stitches.  Ch 2 & turn.

R2: *1 DC, 2 DC in next stitch* Repeat for first 10 stitches.  DC across to last 10 stitches.  *2 DC in stitch, 1 DC in next stitch* Repeat to end.  Ch 2, turn.

R3-R4: 2 DC in first stitch.  DC across to last stitch.  2 DC in last stitch.  Ch 2, turn.

R5-R7: DC across, ch 2, turn.

R8-R31: 2 DC in first stitch.  DC across.  2 DC in last stitch.  Ch 2, turn.

R32: 2 DC in first stitch.  DC across.  2 DC in last stitch.  Tie off, weave in ends.

Ears (make 2):

Ch 10.  Sl st in first stitch.

Ch 1.  Working in a spiral fashion: 10 sc, sk 1 st, 9 sc, sk 1 st, 8 sc, sk 1 st, 7 sc, sk 1 st, 6 sc, sk 1 st, 5 sc, sk 1 st, 4 sc, sk 1 st, 3 sc, sk 1 st, 2 sc, sk 1 st, sl st and tie off.  Hide end in center.  Attach ears to sides of head.

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Crochet Pumpkins

The directions in purple will tell you how to do a basic little pumpkin. The directions in grey will tell you how to adjust the pattern to make any kind of pumpkin you want. In the picture, the left one was made in a pear shape, and the rear right is a TP cover; changes to make these are explained below.

(I used an "I" hook with worsted weight yarn, any combination of hook and yarn can be used)

You will need:

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Orange yarn

Brown yarn

Green yarn

Black yarn or felt

Stuffing

Yarn needle

Beginning and Increasing

Ok, what I did to start was ch4, slip stitch in first ch to make a ring.

Rd 1: ch 3 [counts as first dc here and each round] and dc 11 more times in the ring, sl st around starting chain to join [12 dc total].

If you want more sections on your pumpkin, add some chs to your starting chain, and then dc twice as many stitches in the ring as you want to have raised sections on the pumpkin.

Rd 2: Ch 3, fpdc in same stitch. bpdc in next stitch [each row you will do one bpdc in the bpdc of the previous row, making ridges down the sides of the pumpkin]. (fpdc inc [fpdc inc is done by making 2 fpdc in stitch indicated] in next st, bpdc in next st) repeat 4 times [as many times as needed] and sl st in beginning ch 3 to join. [18 dc total]

Rd 3: Ch 3, fpdc in same stitch. Fpdc inc in next st. Bpdc in next stitch. (Fpdc inc in each of next 2 sts, bpdc in next st.) repeat 4 times [as many times as needed] and sl st in beginning ch 3 to join. [30 dc total]

Rd 4: Ch 3, fpdc in same stitch. Fpdc in next 2 sts, fpdc inc in next st. Bpdc in next st. (Fpdc inc in next st, fpdc in next 2 sts, fpdc inc in next st, bpdc in next st) repeat 4 times [as many times as needed] and sl st in beginning ch 3 to join. [42 dc total]

Rd 5: Ch 3, fpdc in same st. Fpdc in next 4 sts, fpdc inc in next st. Bpdc in next st. (Fpdc inc in next st, fpdc in next 4 sts, fpdc inc in next st, bpdc in next st) repeat 4 times [as many times as needed] and sl st in beginning ch 3 to join. [54 dc total]

If you want your pumpkin to be wider, keep increasing before and after the bpdcs, as before, until you get at the final width you want.

Rd 6: Ch 3, fpdc in next fpdc, and each fpdc from the previous rd, and bpdc in each bpdc from the previous round, continue around, and sl st in beginning ch 3 to join [54 dc total]

Working even

Rds 7-14: Repeat Rd 6

This can be repeated until the pumpkin is as tall as you want. Also, if a pear shaped pumpkin is desired, the round can be repeated for awhile, then increases done as before, and then repeat rd 6 again.

Decreasing

Rd 15: Ch 3, 1 fpdc dec over next 2 sts [fpdc dec worked by doing a fpdc, except don't do the last "yo, pull through 2 loops on hook," instead start a fpdc in the next st, and finish it by pulling through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through last 3 loops on hook. It's just like a regular dc decrease, except it is worked in the front posts of previous stitches] fpdc in each of next 4 sts, fpdc dec over next 2sts, bpdc in next st. (Fpdc dec over next 2sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, fpdc dec over next 2 sts, bpdc in next st.) repeat 4 times [as many times as needed] and sl st in beginning ch 3 to join. [42 dc total]

Rd 16: Ch 3, 1 fpdc dec over next 2 sts, fpdc in next st, fpdc dec over next 2 sts. Bpdc in next st. (Fpdc dec over next 2 sts, fpdc in next 2 sts, fpdc dec over next 2 sts, bpdc in next st) repeat 4 times [as many times as needed] and sl st in beginning ch 3 to join. [30 dc total]

It may be best to stuff the pumpkin at this point, or you can wait till after the next round if it's not too tight.

Rd 17: Ch 3, fpdc in next st, fpdc dec over next 2 sts, bpdc in next st. (Fpdc dec over 1st 2 sts, fpdc dec over next 2 sts, bpdc in next st.) repeat 4 times [as many times as needed] and sl st in beginning ch 3 to join. [19 dc total]

Rd 18: Ch 3, (fpdc dec over next 2 sts, bpdc in next st) repeat 5 times [as many times as needed] and sl st in beginning ch 3 to join. [13 dc total]

End off leaving a long tail, finish off. Thread tail through yarn needle, use it to sew the bottom shut. (I also ran it through the pumpkin from bottom to top, and back to bottom to pull it in a little to give that indentation pumpkins have on the bottom and top, but this is not necessary) finish off.

Finishing

Stem-

To make a stem, using brown yarn, I attached with a sl st around one of the fpdc from round 2. (Chain 3, skip a fpdc and bpdc, and sl st in next fpdc.) repeat 5 times, and sl st in first chain.

Rd 1: Ch 3, dc in first ch group, 2dc in each chain group around, sl st to ch 3 to join.

Rd 2: [this makes a stem with vertical ridges like a real pumpkin. If a smooth stem is desired, simply dc in each st around for rd 2.] Ch 3, bpdc in next st, (fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st) repeat 4 times [as many times as needed] and sl st in beginning ch 3 to join.

Repeat Rd 2 as many times as desired to make the height of stem you like. End off, and use the tail to sew the end closed.

Vine-

As an extra decoration (I think this really makes the piece) I made a chain with green yarn (10-12 chs long for a short vine, longer for a longer one, try a few to see what looks best) then turned and sc in the second ch from the hook, and in each chain till the end, End off, use the tail to sew it to the pumpkin, next to the stem. If the vine doesn't curl (sometimes it doesn't properly without coaxing) take an end in each hand and twist till it makes a nice tight corkscrew (for once having your work twist comes in handy :)

Face-

For a jack-o-lantern, embroider a face on using black yarn, or cut a face out of pieces of felt and sew or glue those on. Have some fun with making lots of different sizes and shapes and different faces.

Other options

TP cover-

I made a TP cover for the bathroom, using this same general pattern.  Do increases until slightly larger than the TP roll, work even until you have the height of the roll, and then decrease one or two rounds so that the cover fits snugly over the roll.

Baskets

I can also imagine doing little pumpkin baskets, by working even until the height you want, decrease a couple rounds (or would even look nice without that) and then doing reverse single crochet all around the top. Add a handle, and you're ready to go. A larger one could be made for your favorite youngster to carry to collect all that Halloween candy.

Pumpkin beret

For that matter, I can see this pattern used as a Halloween outfit all in itself- A cap could be made by increasing rows until quite wide, working even for only one or two rows, and decreasing rows till it fits the head of the person who is to wear it. Make a stem and vine(s) as before. 

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Crochet Granny Limited Edition Tee's

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CROCHET OWL COFFEE MUG- Step By Step Tutorial

Here is an amazing tutorial for Coffee and Crochet lovers. Hope you guys love it. This tutorial is worth $10 in many websites but I'll give it you Absolutely Free. Here we go- 

(Click on the images to make it bigger)

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iPhone Crochet Case DIY Tutorial

Here comes iPhone Crochet Case DIY Tutorial. It's absolutely amazing and very easy. 

It’s ridiculously easy and quick – it took me about an hour and I’m a pretty slow crocheter. Even beginners can handle this fun project.

Materials:

• Thick yarn (I used Bernat Roving) in 1 or 2 colours
• Crochet hook 1 size smaller than recommended on yarn packaging (I used 5.5mm or US 9)
• Button of your choice
• Thread
• Darning needle
• Sewing needle
• Scissors
• Your phone (to make sure the fit is what you want)

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This case will have a more structured feel and appearance if you keep the tension on this firm and tight and consistent throughout the project.

sl st = slip stitch

sc = single crochet

ch = chain

Keep in mind I’m a novice pattern maker so I hope this all makes sense.

Instructions:

1. Make a slip knot and then chain 6 to 8 chain stitches (ch) together. Remember to keep the tension pretty tight.  Basically you want to have the chain be the same width of your phone when the chain is stretched firmly.  If you want the case to have a snug fit, (ch) 6 but if you want it a little more loose and roomy then (ch) 7 or 8 stitches. 
2. Round 2. Not turning your work, (sc) in the second chain from the end (the same end you’re hook is) and continue this in every stitch back across the entire row. 2 (sc) in the last stitch.
3. Round 3. With your work still facing you, turn around the corner so that you’re now working into your original chain and still working right to left, 2 (sc) in first stitch then (sc) the rest of the stitches in the row except 2(sc) in the last stitch. Repeat this for as many rows you need until you have you have achieved the correct width to fit the bottom of you phone (probably about 3-5 rows total depending on how snug or roomy you want your cover).  Keep your phone handy to test and make sure the fit is good.
4. Round 4, 5 or 6 onward. 1 (sc) in each stitch for each row until you’re near the top of your phone.
5. Second last row. Here you can either keep your yarn colour the same or add your second colour. Starting at one side of the case, do one more row of (sc) and then at the end of that row change to 1 (sl st) in each stitch.  When you reach the exact middle of your case, (ch) 30 stitches so that you have a long chain and then do 1 (sl st) in the stitch that your chain originated in so that the chain becomes a loop that will go over the button.  Then carry on around the rest of the row until you’re back where you started. Fasten off and weave in any loose ends with your darning needle.
6. Put your phone in the case and pull the chained loop over.  Mark where the end of your loop falls, centred on the case, and then stitch your button on in that exact spot.

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You could use this pattern for any phone or tablet, just increase the amount of stitches at the beginning to accommodate for the extra width. These would make great gifts too.

Flower Baby Sandals- Step by Step Tutorial

This makes one pair of sandals sized 0-6 months, approx. 11cm from toe to heel.
The pattern beginning to end makes one sandal, so work it through twice for the pair!

Materials:

2 colours aran weight cotton yarn, I use Rico Creative Cotton Aran
3.5mm hook
needle
2 small buttons
cotton thread

Terminology:

I’m using UK terminology, these are the stitches and abbreviations being used.
st(s) = stitch(es)
ch = chain
ss = slip stitch
dc = double crochet (single crochet U.S)
htr = half treble (half double U.S)
tr = treble (double crochet U.S)
RS = right side

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https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8EbrB7KD3Q1dlplUGdmZDVrdm8
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Crochet Clock Tutorial (Exclusive)

I had an extremely positive response to the crocheted clock I made two months ago. Many questions were asked in regards to how I made it, so I decided to put together this tutorial.
This is not a pattern as such, as I've really not invented anything new here. It's simply a step by step guide/tutorial of how I pieced my clock together.
I hope that it's a tutorial that will inspire you to make your own design of crocheted clock. I just can't wait to see the expressions you guys will made...

Important Materials: 
Clocks
Obviously the most important thing you will require for this clock is an actual clock.
I bought mine from our local craft store. Its an MDF circle, with the clock mechanism already built in. My clock measures approximately 33cm in diameter.

I know it can be a little tricky to find theses craft clocks, so there are a couple of alternatives.

1. You could JAZZ up an old clock. Perhaps one you already own or a second hand one from Ebay?

2. You could purchase a clock mechanism (they seem to be much easier to get hold of than a complete crafting clock) and cut a clock face out of cardboard. Once the cardboard is decorated with creative crocheted loveliness, you'll never be able to guess if it's MDF or cardboard.

These clock mechanism are available in many craft stores and are easily available from online stores.

Yarn
Once again I've chosen to work with Universal Cotton by Wolle Rodel. I love to use this yarn as it comes in many many different colours. It's lovely and thick and is extremely durable.

There are many similar cottons on the market and alternatively this clock would work well as a stash busting project, pretty much any dk yarn would do the job!

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Other Bits and Bobs 

The crocheted clock face is just a small part in creating a happy and jolly clock. The bulk of its fun appearance comes from the decorations. I decorated my clock with little wooden numbers, ladybugs, buttons and crocheted flowers. Pretty much anything will work! It's really the perfect chance to get CRAZY CREATIVE!

So let's get down to business!!!!! 

The first step in creating my clock, was to prepare the clock.

I decided to paint the clock with a base colour. I thought that this was a good idea as I didn't want the brown MDF to show through the gaps of the crochet. This is not something you have to do, just something to make the finished product (maybe) a little neater.

I painted my clock face with blue acrylic/poster paint as this was the dominant colour to my crochet face.

I then got started with the round crocheted face of the clock.

I've made two different crocheted clocks so I'll share both designs with you. Both are based around a simple and standard crocheted circle pattern. The only difference is that we are adding some colour changes mid round.

The colour changes are probably the trickiest part of this pattern. I'll show you quickly how I did my mid round colour changes. Hopefully when you get to it in the tutorial, you'll know exactly what your doing.

How to do a mid row colour change
As you can see in the picture below. I've just finished my last blue stitch and I now want to change colour.

I'm going to go ahead and place my yarn over my hook, as if I was going to continue to make another stitch.

I insert my hook into the next stitch. (The stitch where I want my new colour to begin.)

Instead of pulling the blue yarn back through the stitch, I pull my new colour of yarn through.

I then hook the new colour yarn (pink) and I pull it through the loops on my hook, as if I were completing a regular hdc or dc.

I then flip my work over. Take the tail ends of the old colour yarn (blue) and the tail end of the new colour yarn (pink)

I tie the ends in a secure knot. I then go ahead and cut the old yarn (blue yarn) free from my work.

I then flip my work over and continue the tutorial with my new colour yarn.

I hope that makes sense. It is a little tricky to explain, so I hope the pictures help out a little!?

Ladybug Clock!

Now the pattern is going to depend very much on how big your clock is. Below is a guide to how I made mine. It would be simple enough to add more rows for a larger clock, or to not complete all of the rows for a smaller one.
I've written this in US terms.

A little tip.....I would recommend sewing in the ends as you go along :-)

With the dark blue yarn, ch 4 and join with a sl st to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch2 (counts as 1 hdc) 10 hdc into the ring. Join with a sl st into 2nd chain of initial ch2. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1 hdc) hdc into the same stitch. "2 hdc into next stitch". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: (Change colour to dark blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next stitch. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the next stitch". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 4: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 2 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 2 next stitches". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: (Change colour to dark blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 3 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 3 next stitches". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 6: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 4 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 4 next stitches". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 7: (Change colour to dark blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 5 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 5 next stitches". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 8: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 6 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 6 next stitches". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 9: (Change colour to dark blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 7 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 7 next stitches". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 10: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 8 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 8 next stitches". Repeat between " " 5 times. Change colour to red. *2 hdc in next stitch, hdc in the next 8 stitches*. Repeat between * * 3 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 11: (Change colour to dark blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 9 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 9 next stitches". Repeat between " " 5 times. Change colour to orange. *2 hdc in next stitch, hdc in the next 9 stitches*. Repeat between * * 3 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 12: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 10 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 10 next stitches". Repeat between " " 5 times. Change colour to yellow. *2 hdc in next stitch, hdc in the next 10 stitches*. Repeat between * * 3 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 13: (Change colour to dark blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 11 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 11 next stitches". Repeat between " " 5 times. Change colour to green. *2 hdc in next stitch, hdc in the next 11 stitches*. Repeat between * * 3 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 14: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 12 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 12 next stitches". Repeat between " " 5 times. Change colour to blue. *2 hdc in next stitch, hdc in the next 12 stitches*. Repeat between * * 3 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 15: (Change colour to dark blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 13 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 13 next stitches". Repeat between " " 5 times. Change colour to indigo. *2 hdc in next stitch, hdc in the next 13 stitches*. Repeat between * * 3 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 16: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 14 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 14 next stitches". Repeat between " " 5 times. Change colour to violet. *2 hdc in next stitch, hdc in the next 14 stitches*. Repeat between * * 3 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 17: (Change colour to dark blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 15 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 15 next stitches". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 18: (Change colour to light blue) Ch1 (counts as 1sc) sc in every stitch. Fasten off

Rnd 19 - Border: (change colout to dark blue) sl st into next 2 stitches. (sc, ch3, sc) into next stitch. "sl st into the next 3 stitches. (sc,ch3, sc) into the next stitch". Repeat between " " around the whole circumference of the circle.
Fasten off.
Sew in any remaining ends.

With the light orange yarn, ch 4 and join with a sl st to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch2 (counts as 1 hdc) 10 hdc into the ring. Join with a sl st into 2nd chain of initial ch2. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: (Change colour to dark orange) Ch2 (counts as 1 hdc) hdc into the same stitch. "2 hdc into next stitch". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: (Change colour to light orange) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next stitch. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the next stitch". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 4: (Change colour to dark orange) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 2 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 2 next stitches". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: (Change colour to light orange) This round is done by working through the front loops of the previous rounds stitches only! "sl st into the front loop of next 3 stitches. (sc, Ch2, sc) into the front loop of next stitch. Repeat between " " 10 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 6: (Change colour to dark blue) Working through the back loops of Rnd 4. Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 3 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 3 next stitches". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 7: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 4 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 4 next stitches". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 8: (Change colour to dark blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 5 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 5 next stitches". Repeat between " " 4 times. Change colour to red. *2hdc in next stitch, hdc into next 5 stitches*. Repeat between * * 4 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 9: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 6 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 6 next stitches". Repeat between " " 4 times. Change colour to orange. *2hdc in next stitch, hdc into next 6 stitches*. Repeat between * * 4 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 10: (Change colour to dark blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 7 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 7 next stitches". Repeat between " " 4 times. Change colour to yellow. *2hdc in next stitch, hdc into next 7 stitches*. Repeat between * * 4 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 11: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 8 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 8 next stitches". Repeat between " " 4 times. Change colour to green. *2hdc in next stitch, hdc into next 8 stitches*. Repeat between * * 4 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 12: (Change colour to dark blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 9 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 9 next stitches". Repeat between " " 4 times. Change colour to blue. *2hdc in next stitch, hdc into next 9 stitches*. Repeat between * * 4 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 13: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 10 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 10 next stitches". Repeat between " " 4 times. Change colour to indigo. *2hdc in next stitch, hdc into next 10 stitches*. Repeat between * * 4 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 14: (Change colour to dark blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 11 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 11 next stitches". Repeat between " " 4 times. Change colour to violet. *2hdc in next stitch, hdc into next 11 stitches*. Repeat between * * 4 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 15: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 12 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 12next stitches". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 16: (Change colour to dark blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 13 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 13 next stitches". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 17: (Change colour to light blue) Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc into the same stitch. hdc into the next 14 stitches. "2 hdc into the next stitch, hdc into the 14 next stitches". Repeat between " " 9 times. Fasten off.

Rnd 18: (Change colour to dark blue Ch2 (counts as 1hdc) hdc in every remaining stitch. fasten off.

Rnd 19: -Border: (Change colour to light blue) "sl into next 3 stitches. (sc, ch3 sc) into nest stitch". Repeat between " " 43 times. Fasten off.

Sew in any remaining ends.

Once you have finished your crochet circle and sewn in the ends, your ready to attach it to your clock. 

I simply did this by removing the hands from my clock and placing my crocheted clock face on top of the crafting clock. 

Make sure your clock is the correct way up before you glue the crochet to it.

If you have made the "Bumble Bee Sunshine Clock" design then you may also want to glue the sun beams down flat, so that they do not obstruct the hands of the clock.

Now for the fun decorating part!!!!!

Adding flowers, numbers and other glorious goodies!

 I used two different patterns for the pretty decorative flowers. The first being the Crochet flowers pattern found on the Mollie Makes website. I did find this pattern a little fiddly at first. Once I got my head around it, it was plain sailing and it really makes a beautiful flower.

The other flower pattern I used was by Lucy at Attic24. Her patterns are explained with lovely pictures and are extremely easy to follow, not to mention the finished flowers are so cute.

I added bright and colourful button to the middle of each of my flowers. I'll let you in on a secret...I didn't actually sew the buttons on. Instead I used the help of my trusty glue gun!
I threaded the yarn through the button;

Then tied the yarn in a double knot.

I snipped off the tailing ends of yarn.

Finally I glued each of the buttons to the flowers. Normally I wouldn't glue buttons to a project. I figured as the clock isn't being made to be touched and played around with, then I could get away with it. The glue works as a strong enough fastener and is much quicker than sewing every button by hand.

I added wooden numbers to my clock, in which I painted different colours. You could do the same or alternatively use felt numbers or cardboard numbers....maybe even try crocheting the numbers?

I took my time positioning the flowers and bugs. Once I was satisfied with the positioning I glued them on with the glue gun.

I really enjoyed hiding the bugs under leafs and on the numbers. At first you do not notice them. When you look a little longer and closer you suddenly see the happy faces of the lady bugs smiling back up at you. I think that's fun!

When positioning your flowers and bugs. Be aware of the clock hands. My clock hands lay quite high above the crocheted face, so there is room to put flowers near/or underneath. Just be careful that your decorations do not obstruct the path of the hands, as the clock will not work properly.
As you can see in the picture below, I've left a wide margin free of decorations, so the hands can function properly.

Other than that, your decorative options for the clock are endless! Try being original and let you crafty creativeness take over. I hope some of you will give making a crocheted clock ago. I am extremely intrigued to see what you clever and talented people will come up with!

I hope you have fun!!! As always if you have any questions or spot problems just drop me a line and I'll do my best to get back to you!

We hope that you have enjoyed making your Crochet Clock!

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